FAQ
Most people want to know why using natural means of balancing the pond is better than adding chemicals or extra filters. We refer you to Aquascapes Design, the largest builder of ponds in the country to give you some background. Click on the link above or read the Frequently Asked Questions below.
Q: Do you use bottom drains?
A: No, we don't use bottom drains. We feel that with rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond, the bottom drains are unnecessary. The bacteria in the rocks and gravel will break down any debris that gets down to the bottom of the pond. Also, there is enough aeration coming from the BIOFALLS© and the waterfall to aerate the entire pond.
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Q: Do you use Ultra Violet lights?
A: No, we don't use UV lights either. Again, we feel that they are unnecessary. If you follow all of the steps of the Aquascape Ecosystem and get enough plants, rocks, gravel, not too many fish and are putting the Aquaclearer bacteria, you won't need the UV light. We rarely ever have green water in our ponds that we build, and most of the time it clears up with in a couple of weeks. UV lights will do nothing but get you into a cycle that works against nature instead of with it.
Q: Why do you put rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond?
A: We put rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond for a couple of reasons. The number one reason is for filtration of the pond. The rocks provide a huge amount of surface area for the bacteria to colonize on. This bacterial breaks down the fish waste and other organic debris that fall to the bottom. The second reason is to help lock the liner in place so that the water weight doesn't bring it down. The third main reason is aesthetics. The ponds with rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond is much more natural looking than having a black liner with nothing but algae covering it up.
Q: What is the recommended amount of fish to put in the pond?
A: Our rule of thumb for amount of fish is to have 1" of fish for every 1 sq. ft. of pond surface area.
Q: What is the recommended amount of plants to put in the pond?
A: The recommended amount of plants is to have 30-50% of the surface covered. You want to have a good mix of plants. You don't want to have all of one type of plant. Put in a mix of marginal, oxygenators, and lilies. You'll want to have more of the first two types of plants more than the lilies.
Q: How often you want to turn the water over in the pond?
A: We try to turn the water over in the pond once every 2 hours minimum. Once every hour is the ideal turn over rate in smaller ponds.
Q: How deep should the pond be?
A: Average size ponds don't need to be more than 2' deep for fish and plants to over-winter in Zone 5 Chicago. This two foot depth can be extended into Canada. For small water gardens in most zones you can over-winter fish and plants in 2-2.5' of depth.
Q: Do you plant the plants in pots or directly into the gravel?
A: We plant all the plants except Lotus directly into the gravel. The plants grow much better in the gravel because their roots will never get bound. This also helps the eco-system, because the plants will be able to search out more nutrients by letting the root system travel through the gravel and rocks.
Q: How often should you feed the fish?
A: This is a debatable question and also depends on how many fish you have in the pond. We usually recommend not feeding fish more than once a day. The fish have plenty of things to nibble on in the pond, and the more you feed the fish, the more waste they will produce.
Q: When should you start/stop feeding the fish?
A: Don't feed the fish when the water is under 55 degrees. The fish metabolism is slowed down and won't be able to process the food.
Q: Where do I put the bacteria in the pond?
A: Sprinkle the Bacteria in front of the skimmer. This will make sure that the bacteria gets into the BIOFALLS© and every where else in the pond
Q: At what temperature should you start putting the bacteria in?
A: Wait until the water temperature is above 50 degrees to start putting the bacteria in. The bacteria starts to really take off in temperatures above 65 degrees.
Q: What is the difference between Liquid and Dry bacteria?
A: The dry bacteria is freeze dried and concentrated. It takes 3-4 days in the water before it really starts to become active. The liquid bacteria is already alive and starts to work as soon as it is in the pond. It is not as concentrated, but faster acting. The liquid bacteria is recommended for spring start up and for combating green water, the dry bacteria is recommended for maintenance during the season.
Q: How soon can I start putting fish in my pond?
A: We usually say 3-4 days after the pond is filled and running.
TIPS ON AFTER THE POND IS BUILT
PLANTS AND FISH
For a garden pond to be successful, it must contain both plants and fish. Not only is this an optimum esthetic condition; but a balanced biotope with interactions between plants and fish will ensure proper water conditions, reduce insects, especially mosquitos, since the fish consume their larva, and plants will greatly reduce the development of algae.
Plants and fish benefit each other in two ways. First, fish and plants contribute to the successful functioning of the nitrogen cycle. As the waste products excreted by fish are released into the water, they are converted to ammonia and then to nitrites and nitrates by nitrifying bacteria. Nitrates are a food or fertilizer for plants and algae. As they are absorbed, plants and algae become a valuable food resource for fish, thus completing the nitrogen cycle.
This ongoing biological cycle ensures healthy pond life. It is important to realize that if plants are not thriving, algae will take over and the water will become murky.
* A second important way fish and plants complement one other is through the process of photosynthesis. Fish require oxygen for their existence and they release carbon dioxide. Plants in turn require carbon dioxide for their successful existence and emit oxygen. During sunlight, plants will consume the carbon dioxide released by fish and in turn emit oxygen required by fish.
A constantly functioning nitrogen cycle and photosynthesis are the key components to a successful and beautiful garden pond. The most beautiful type of pond plants are lilies. Water lettuce and water hyacinths are also excellent additions to the pond and submerged plants such as Hornwort, Vallisneria, Sagitarria, Cabomba and Anacharis are also excellent. The ideal pond fish are common or hardy goldfish
Weekly Tasks
* Check the water level--if it has dropped due to evaporation, top it off. Add a dechlorinator if you add more than 10% of the total volume of water. If it has not dropped, pump about 5% of the water into the surrounding garden and top off the pond. The water is great fertilizer and the water changing deters chemical buildup that can corrode the pump.
* Check the bottom of the pond for decaying vegetation and remove dead plants, leaves or other vegetation. Dead and decaying plant material can foul the water and kill the fish.
Monthly Tasks
* Fertilize your water lilies with a product made for aquatic plants. Follow the manufacturer's directions for application. Fertilize the lilies from the time the leaves reach the surface in the spring until the lilies go dormant --usually about the first of November.
* If you have a filter with your pump, clean it every month. During the hot part of the summer and if your pond is in full sun, clean it more often. If the filter has a foam rubber component, run water through it until the water runs clear. Do not squeeze or wring it out.
Yearly Tasks
* Remove all of the fish, plants and pump out the water. Lightly scrub the bottom and sides of the pond with a brush--do not use chemicals or soap. Add new water, dechlorinate, replace fish, divide plants, repot and replace. Save some of the old water to store the fish in while the pond is being cleaned. Put the fish in plastic bags in the old water. Float the fish on top of the newly cleaned pond until the water in the bag and the water in the pond are the same temperature. Late February is a great time to do the yearly cleaning. Make sure the temperature of the water is above 55 degrees.
Algea... The Green Monster!
Green water is typical in the early spring as the air and water warm before most aquatic plants break their winter dormancy. This doesn't affect us in Maui. Prevention is the easiest remedy for green water algae. Check that nutrients are not entering the pond through runoff from surrounding lawns and grounds. Monitor your fish population: too many fish result in the production of excess nitrates that bring on an algae bloom. Remember to include submerged plants in your spring plantings at a ratio of one bunch per one-to-two square feet of water surface. They will effectively compete with algae in a pond not overburdened with fish or great amounts of decomposing organic matter. Controlling Algae with chemicals are only the start of bigger problems, many of these chemicals may also inhibit the growth of desirable aquatic plants or harm the fish population. One such ingredient in most algaecides (copper sulfate) removes the slime coating from fish and leaves them susceptible to parasites and disease. Another item used in some ponds is ultraviolet sterilizers. These lights are setup after the filter unit so that all water passes within a specific distance to kill any microscopic plant or animal life with in the water, not a desirable effect in a natural water garden. This form of algae control also presents a “cleanup” problem. If the dead algae collects on the pond bottom as seimen, the cycle of decomposing organic matter produces more nutrients for more algae. AND the problem never ends….WORK WITH NATURE NOT AGAINST IT!!! Chemicals and Ultraviolet lights are not in natures ponds which are clear and clean…